Israel and Palestine

Ulloo11 - Israel and Palestine

Why Israel & Palestine?

(Raj) Why not? Both are fascinating places. Their rich shared history, peoples, cultures, and of course the religions. The birthplace of two major world faiths - Judaism, Christianity and a place of significance for Islam. I had had the good fortune of having been there before and to see, or should that be to experience, Jerusalem twice. So that was my recommendation to the Ulloos who agreed that both places should be the destination for Ulloo11.

Not always at peace yet there the message of peace was brought to humanity. Mingling and sharing yet living apart and sometimes in conflict. Striving to desire resolution yet forever divided. Such is this mind boggling place!

Meeting up at Heathrow - all 5 this time !

Israel - Tel Aviv

The Ulloos arrived in Tel Aviv on 17th October. They flew with bmi from heathow T1 to Tel Aviv Yafo Ben Gurion International - be prepared for a bit of a grilling at passport control! Not too bad but remember to ask for the visas to be stamped on a separate piece of paper other wise if it is in your passport it may make it more difficult to travel to certain other countries.

The Kfar Maccabia hotel in Ramat Gan for 2 nights was to be the base for exploring Tel Aviv. A 20 minute taxi ride from just outside the airport and we were there. Ask for the meter to be used for all taxi travel. This was an impressive hotel, over the top for the ulloos, may be reflecting a new gentler approach to experiencing these countries, with a friendly and efficient reception.

Take a look for yourself at ...

http://www.kmc.co.il/index_en.cfm

That evening there was a little consideration for going to an indian reatuarant for ulloo first meal in Israel as it was Diwalli but then it was decided to get advice from reception and ulloos went to a modern popular area in Ramat Gan.

Carmel Market

Carmel Market is Tel Aviv's largest food and vegetable market. A must for any visit to Tel Aviv. The ulloos travelled there by no 33 bus caught from a stop a short walk from the hotel. The hotel reception was very helpful, arming us with maps and instructions. We smartly asked for our destination to be written on a piece of paper so that we could show the driver. However, when we got on the bus, the elderly driver did not seem to speak english and looked baffled when we showed him the note --- we afterwards realised that he probably did not read english either! Don't be put off taking public transport just remember to have instructions written in hebrew as well.

Jaffa

Ulloos.... I've just found a highly recommended 3 star fish restaurant located at the worlds oldest harbour. Its only a 15 minute walk in the blazing midday sun but I'm sure it'll be worth it because it says so in the travel guide.

Moral of the story: travel guides can over-hype things. But then again, we are Ulloos and "We never learn Guy!"

Refreshment break

great pomegrante drink .... but we really should have chosen a vendor that was not next to the fresh fish stall

Is it art?

(Raj) Graffiti in Tel Aviv near the old city. Seems well done but it was done in the right place and no boubt with approvel.

Ancient and modern

View of the skyline of Tel Aviv from Haifa.

Street in old Haifa

(Raj) A year later I would return again to Haifa and have an evening meal at an Arab restaurant. The waiter recommended I have fish caught that afternoon. When the fried fish arrived, accompanied by huge portions of fries and vegetables, it's size was enough to feed about three people. About five or six side dishes also started to appear. I kindly asked the young waiter to take them back given that I would be unable to finish the main dish,let alone the various assortments of local salads, humus etc. The waiter ignored my request and told me I would manage. Of course I didn't and told him I had not touched the side dishes. "They were in the total price of your food," he told me. What a waste! I thought.

Bargain basement Kippas

Available at Carmel market. For up-market Kippas try the Kippa Man in Jerusalem

.....It was worth it

Classic Ulloo pose with Tel Aviv in the background viewed from Jaffa.

Although the harbour was disappointing Jaffa is worth paying a visit if you're in Tel Aviv.

Jerusalem

The old city - wow!

Al-Aqsa

We had previously attempted to visit Jerusalem about five years ago – this was combined with our trip to Egypt, however, this was not to be – On the very day that we flew to Cairo there was another Intifada so to visit under such circumstances would have been too risky for the Ulloos. So plans were changed and we decided to stay the extra days in Egypt.

This time around things were also very uncertain. There was little confidence that we were going to make it especially since trouble had started again in Jerusalem a few weeks before we were due to depart and in fact the authorities had shut down the compound for everybody even the locals for prayer and then opened it for over the 50’s only. I was very apprehensive – were we going to make it!!

Masjid Al-Aqsa is the place where the Prophet led the other prophets in prayer and then ascended to the heavens so a very special place. There are only three mosques that Muslims should visit, the Ka’ba in Mecca, the Prophet’s mosque at Medina and Masjid Al-Aqsa at Jerusalem

I was looking forward to this for a very long time – and the time was here at last. The opp
ortunity to pray at the third holiest place in Islam had finally arrived – as soon as we entered the compound a guard approached us to ask if we wanted to go inside Masjid Al-Aqsa and the Dome of the Rocks. I asked for the place to wash and was taken to a place on the side of the compound then went back to the mosque. Before being allowed to enter the mosque the security guard checked my passport and asked me if the name in the passport was my name!! There were many people praying individually as it was not time for congregational prayer. After the prayer, inside the masjid I met someone who had travelled from the Midlands on an olive business holiday.

After visiting inside the mosques I then went around the whole compound to capture the views of the Mount of the Olives and various other small building now used by the security guards. I was free to wonder around with no one hassling me and to my amazement found that apart from a few locals I was the only person left – The two guides who were showing me around did appear from time to time but only to find out how I was doing. There are many exits from the Al-Haram Al-Sharif so I asked the guide where the Ulloos had gone and eventually joined them for some mint tea at one of the entrances where they had been waiting for me.

I felt very privileged that I had prayed at both the Al-Aqsa and the Dome of the Rocks. Although the Dome of the Rocks is a magnificent building the significance for Muslims is not as great. The dome of the rocks is used for women to pray but I was allowed to look around and also go under the Rock where there is a place to pray.

One of the highlights was when we were near the wailing wall and trying to work out what to do next and heard the call to prayer (I had this desire to also pray one of the congregational prayers at the mosque) So straight away I went towards the Al-Haram Al-Sharif (by this stage I knew my way around) at the entrance the security officer asked me for my passport – having inspected it and given me a long hard stare he asked where I was from then allowed me to enter, there were also other people at the entrance who greeted me with Asslaamo-Alaikum. There were many other people also walking towards the mosque, having rushed there I found that the there was still plenty of time and people were starting to arrive. The masjid was full by the time the prayer started.

After the prayer there were many people sitting around outside the mosque just chatting and having a laugh – there were more young people than old but they all seemed at peace in this scared place. Hind-sight is a wonderful thing but I think we should have also visited Hebron - to see the tomb of Abraham. May be this is another reason for another visit.

Another highlight has got to be when we went back to the hotel rooftop for a photo session. Ashok had insisted that we should go back again as we did not take enough photos. And so it happened - totally unplanned we landed up there again – we took many photos but the special moment came when there were calls to prayer from all directions – they were all slightly out of sync. but that gives it the human touch. This is Jerusalem!! With calls to prayer from all direction with the many magnificent churches is full view, the mount of the olives in the distance and the Wailing Wall in very close proximity. What a unique place!! We are not going to experience this any where else on this planet.

About a day after our return there was trouble again at the compound – the masjid had been closed down again – I saw the reports of the violence and vividly recognised the place we had just visited, there was fighting right outside Masjid Al-Aqsa. It is very sad to see that in the very midst of this most scared and holy place there is fighting, violence and oppression.

I feel very lucky and privileged to have visited and experienced Jerusalem with the Ulloos.

Tel Aviv to Jerusalem

Ulloos took the bus from outside the hotel in Tel Aviv to the main bus station. We waited dutifully for our bus/coach to Jerusalem only to be told by the driver we had been at the right bus no. stop but unfortunatly going the wrong way. Once corrected we had a long wait. This is where we first really saw another reality of Isreal, the number of young people in service uniform many carrying guns. We chatted to one of them, he was not carrying a weapon and was rather pleased to say he had done his service in an adminstative area, his service was soon coming to an end and he was booked to celebrate by coming to London and then onto meet with friends in Amsterdam. Most of our fellow travellers to Jerusalem were young and in service clothes. We are glad our own children do not have such pressures. There is a lot of traffic as we approach Jerusalem. At the coach stop we find a couple of taxi's and make our way to the hotel. As we quietly observe, we get a hint, from the clothes and uniforms, of the diversity of orthodox and modern values that we woud encounter here.

Irony

I know we were going to play it by ear on this trip and not plan things to the nth degree but old habits die hard!

Street confusion

(Raj) Old Jersualem City is a confusion of narrow streets and lanes and having a map does not always help. When I was last there the hotel receptionist handed me a map and cautioned "Please do not get lost or go into side lanes". That was of little help and I managed to do both without any harm coming to me. This time we had five university graduates, all scientists and engineers, with a couple of doctorates thrown in. Here we are with a map and still having to ask the locals for directions!! But that is all part of the experience.

narrow streets and lanes

and more narrow streets and lanes

but the old city is not all like that ...

yes tourists and touristy in parts but this place has many believers and worshippers. Sombre, quiet joy and respectful is the mood amongst all.

Via Dolorosa and Church of the Holy Sepulchre

Who are those guys?

The Temple Mount / The Sacred Noble Sanctuary

It's a precious moment in time ....

but how lucky are we .... two weeks earlier we could not have been here because of troubles and also on the very day we were leaving Tel Aviv. We also had Saif with us, he not only had the password but also a camera!

Password and camera but ...

..... also the shakes

....... or perhaps it was the camera! (we're told)

The Dome of the Rock

The Wailing Wall

(Raj) We put on our Kippe and headed towards the Wailing Wall. At this, the most sacred remains of the Second Temple, no one asked who we were, where we were from and why we were there. It is a solemn place. One feels it. A place of personal prayer, reflection and contemplation. We had our own feelings.

Mine on that morning were revolving round the history of the people of Israel, their trials, tribulations, the desruction of their two Temples, their Diaspora and ultimate return. Here the Wall of the Jews and above it the third most Holy Place of Islam from where the Prophet (P.B.U.H.) began his journey to Heaven and bring back the rites of Islam. All this here in one confined sacred space.

Within the covered area to the left, where the Wall extends and some ancient remains are revealed, we saw and listened to a group of school boys, uniformed all alike, seated on two rows of chairs facing the Wall reciting their ancient texts. Under the guidence of their portly teacher of some tangable presence with side locks of hair, imposing black wear, hat and a beard to match, toing and froing behind them, counselling correction where needed. Then silence. An instruction to read in quietude. No whispers, no chatting, just to ponder over the words they had just uttered. Words most profound and deep no doubt.

And so it was while the master paced behind them he paused to exchange a few words with those who walked beside him.

The roof top feeling

(Raj) On our first afternoon in the city we decided to take it easy and go on a leasurely wander about the walled city. But we were not left alone for long and a self-invited guide decided to hold our hands and show us his ancient town. It was not what we had in mind but since he introduced himself as a "professor" of history, in the same breath warning us not to go "with those young boys who know nothing!" Then having turned on me for telling him "we know all this!" we agreed, in the collective Ulloo way, to take him on. He took us to a hotel roof top to unfold before us a panorama of ancient Jerusalem.

I'll leave it for Ashok to describe what he, and he alone, felt there. It was something special for sure.
As for me I enjoyed the view but felt nothing really special. Later, having analysed this I drew the conclusion that I had been to the city twice before and it was deja vu. Mind you, like Ashok, it was certainly a special feeling probably similar to the one I had the first time.

The roof top experience

(Raj) The old walled city of Jerusalem is a very special place. It's one of those places that a description in words would never do any justice. It can only be felt and it is a place that grabs the heart and the soul. Ashok knows as he has a roof top experience and contemplates in silence.

And again.....

This time without Ashok's Bollywood pose!

Yad Vashem - Living Memorial to the Holocaust

You cannot fail to be moved here. Ulloos spent several hours here and it still was not enough. Photography is not allowed and our cameras had to be secured away, so this photo is from the internet, I don't think anyone will mind.

You can find out more at the official site here

Whilst there a VIP was shown around, surrounded by photographers and burly 'men n black' - we later discovered that it was, Susan Rice, the US Ambassador to the United Nations.

Our Guide in Jerusalem

The Ulloos enjoy fine Lebanese cuisine while our hand-picked guide from Haifa contemplates how to make our day trip to Bethlehem one to remember. Expect to pay a premium for quality service!

the new city

The Ulloos show off their bhangra skills to the local ravers

Kebab Place

Located at the end of main street in Jerusalem next to pay-phones. Great food, great beer, great service. Israel is a very expensive tourist destination but this place is easy on your wallet.

The food's got to be good if Raj likes it!

Kippa Man

Up-market Kippa shop

Addar Hotel, Jerusalem

Hey Guys, I thought we were going to rough it on this Ulloo trip!

The Addar Hotel was the 3 night stay base for exploring Jerusalem

10 St. Georges Street/53 Nablus Road, 97200 Jerusalem

Ulloos will add personal views but this is the marketing stuff:

' Addar Hotel is an exclusive family run boutique hotel owned by Jerusalem's oldest and best known family. The historic 19th century building was completely rebuilt as a hotel with the highest standards in 1997 retaining the original entrance and façade. Since its opening, Addar has attracted the most sophisticated travelers. Addar is regularly chosen as the home of various Ambassadors and Consul-generals.

Addar is unique in style, atmosphere and service , administrated with the full attention of a serving staff ready for our guests’ needs giving them an a truly home away from home'

...... but you should always do your own research and there are many websites to help you do that e.g. tripadvisor.com

Saif and the Piano

(Raj) On all Ulloo trips it is Saif who takes care of the music with some of us bringing along our CDs. The sound system that he packs with care plays Bollywood Old Gold Rafi, Lata, Mukesh and Kishor songs. We love it. However what was unbeknown to us was his mastery of the piano.

After an evening out in Jerusalem city centre we returned, about 11.30 pm, to our hotel in two taxis. Samji, Saif and I were the first to arrive. I went to the lobby desk and waited for the receptionist to hand me the key to our room. Waited while the receptionist was on the phone, waited and waited. Then from somewhere behind me I heard three notes struck at random on the piano. They were loud and sounded like "PLONG, PLONK, PLINK". My recognition of this solo concerto was instant! It could only be SAIF!.

Events moved rather rapidly from that point on. The receptionist threw down the phone, handed me the key, Saif shouted to play more while Samji proceeded to slam down the key cover on top of Saif's fingers that were only eager to entertain us further.

The other Ulloos arrived just as we took the lift to our room. They could not decide if there was laughter coming from it or crying - it was both!

Champion Snorers

Ashok and Sudesh ex-physics lab partners and now, together with Samji, champion snorers.

Ashok: You're snoring's doing my head in. The lack of sleep is starting to affect my debating skills!

Sudesh: Lucky I'm a heavy sleeper!

How many Ulloos does it take to......

One world renowned expert in his field and one project manager trained in Prince 2 methodology with which you can build a space rocket... yet they can't open their sofa bed!

Palestine - Bethlehem

The Ulloos decided to go to Bethlehem the hard way requiring a complicated and time consuming passage through the 'border' from Israel into Palestine and back. We could have saved ourselves a lot of time by just picking an israel resident arabic driver who would have been able to drive between Israel and Palestine.

All are welcome .....

The birth place of Jesus

Jesus was born here

(Raj) A silver star, just half visible in the photo we took is claimed to be the spot where the Virgin Mary gave birth to baby Jesus. At the Church of the Nativity it all seems so rather humble. People, curious tourists and the very devout come. The tourist to look on and the devout to kneel, touch and kiss the star. easy to tell who belongs in which category. We did not join the long queue of people waiting patiently to take their turn to pay homage. We just stood for a few brief moments and watched in silence.

It was different when I last came here with my guide and driver Ali. We had driven over from Israel, through the check point where he was asked a couple of questions, his car quickly looked over, and then waved through. He had, in some haste, by-passed the long queue and almost pushed me to touch the star. I kneeled down and touched it drawing the sanctified fingers to my forehead.

Back on my feet I looked about through my early morning haze to realise that there were people who I had jumped ahead of. Feeling uneasy and ashamed I brought this objection to Ali's attention who calmly asked "Do you want to wait two hours?". Well no, I would rather not, but then neither would I queue-jump and would have been quite happy to do it the right way.

On the way back I suffered an untypical but mild asthmatic tightening of the chest. A feeling like a hand was squeezing my breathing organ with the intention of suffocation. Probably as a result of the stress brought on by guilt. Wheezing, I asked him if he could get me an inhaler, informing him that back in Europe one needed a doctor's prescription. "Do not worry my friend" he replied and walked into the nearest pharmacy. Ignoring any waiting clients he went straight to the counter and, in Arabic, explained my symptoms and within seconds handed me the much needed relief. "How did you do that?" I asked the silly question. "They are family friends" he replied. "Do not worry my friend!".

Half way to the check point he parked his car and took me into what he said was "the best restuarant in Palestine for falaffal". It was more of a cafe as yet to graduate to the level of a restuarant. Not having had breakfast that morning the freshly fried falaffal were heaven sent as was the cold Pepsi. My asthma now cured and with fresh veggi falaffal eggs nestling cosily in my stomach we headed back to Jerusalem.

Look up there, my friends!

(Raj) While our guide points out and explains the various interesting facets of the Church of the Nativity, Sudesh (nearest to the camera in the Ulloo line up) is as ever fascinated by all this stuff!

Sight-seeing overload

Ulloos help, I think I'm going to faint!

Still looking

Looking for something but has one of us found it?

"We are one family here"

(Raj) Not sure which Ulloo put the question to our (Christian) guide "Do Muslims and Christians get along here?". No need for a thoughtful or uneasy pause. The reply was immediate "Yes, we are all one family here. We are all brothers and sisters!". "We are all one family too" I responded gyrating my right arm about the Ulloos.

"Can we visit the mosque?" I asked. "Of course, you are most welcome!"

For a moment we hesitated by the door looking at the shoes left outside. "But is it not time for prayer?" I asked "We are not Muslim, only our friend Saif can go in".

"It's OK prayer is over, you can go in, welcome! you are all welcome!" So we took off our shoes and went in. Up the steps we enter a quiet hall of congregation. A few worshippers linger. I stumble upon three elderly gentlemen sitting facing the Mehrab leaning against a wall. They look up and one asks "Italian?". "No" I replied and to keep matters simple replied "Al-Hind". We shook hands, each one of us returning it to touch our chests where the heart resides. They said "Bismillah!"

.... in the house of god

Welcomed into the mosque, saif prays, we talk to devotees. They are inquisitive and warm one of them proudly telling us that his will the voice that we will hear calling to pray. A little more time and I sure he would have welcomed us to experience this first hand

Dead Sea and Arad

Dead Sea

"The Dead Sea Resort"

What a rubish map, I can't find the Dead Sea Resort on it, even though I managed to book a hotel there with Expedia!

It's a miracle we got there ..

I love it when a plan comes together. I knew that the guy at the information desk in Jerusalem bus station had amazing psychic abilities so that when I asked him which bus goes to "The Dead Sea Resort" he knew I was talking about Arad which is about 30km from the Dead Sea.

Inbar Hotel

Our base for dead sea and arad:
The Inbar Hotel
38 Yehuda St. 89109 Arad, Israel
Tel. 08-9973303 Fax: 08-9973322

The Dead Sea - or dying

(Raj) The Dead Sea is not dead - at least not just yet. Starved of its feed waters it is slowly but surely getting there. The water level continues to drop, becoming ever more saline, mined for its rich mineral resources by both Israel and Jordan dry ground is appearing where once there was none. Plans have been aired (by the Isralis) to bring in replenishing waters from the Red Sea. There being no agreement from the Jordanians, and most of all the environmentalists, the project remains on hold... while the Dead Sea waits and slowly but surely vanishes into thin air.

My (first) encounter with the Dead Sea

(Raj) Saif, Samji and I had been there before - from the Jordanian side. While now we found ourselves at a fully equipped resort with modern hotels, shops, bars and restaurants the other side, visible from this side, was rather more sparse.

The sea, any sea, and I do now make for easy company. I shy away from deep waters (even if calm), can only swim in short bursts and just cannot get to grips with treading water - Sudesh did his best to teach Saif and I but we failed despite his good instructions and patients. This time, three Ulloos went way out and are just visible as little dots to the centre left of the picture. Something neither Saif or I would be comfortable with. In fact Saif was lulled into security by going with them but soon turned back when he felt no ground under his feet.

The last time, somewhere I had read dire warnings about going into the Dead Sea. They councelled "do not swim, do not dunk your head under the water, do not get the water into your eyes, and on no account drink it!" To put it bluntly the water is toxic. All the advise was adhered to until the moment of stepping out. I lost my balance on stones slippery with salt and fell in. Panic set in and I swallowed a good mouthfull of the foul liquid. An instant bout of vomitting ensued. I bent double and, not having eaten anything that day, wretched until all the water came out and then nothing but still with the strong intinct to throw up even more. Took a shower, dressed and got together with Samji and Saif. I tried to speak but no words spilled out. My throat was on fire and I bought, from the shop nearby, and drank a lot of fruit juice and fresh water. I did not manage to speak a word until about 11 O'clock that evening. Then only just. I could eat no food for the pain and there was a strong desire to eat bananas and ice cream. Going to bed I had the feeling that it would be a sleepless night and a terrible burning throat in the morning. Well, I slept well and was totally recovered when I woke up.

The Question

(Raj) The night before our visit to the Dead Sea, Samji asked us a question. He wanted to know which Ulloo travel experiences would each of us rate as top three and why? Taking the lead did not exclude him from answering this question on his part. So after our two or so hour dip the in the Dead Sea an impromptu Ulloo conference convened - over a few beers of course. Israel was not included in the options since it was deemed to be too early and not yet mulled over with reflections.

That left Samji, Saif and I with 10 to choose from, Sudesh 9 and Ashok 3 (+1 next time) so for Ashok making it simple to rank the three.

The collective top answers were (in alphabetical order) China, India, Kenya, Lebanon, Spain, Syria & Jordan and Turkey.