Ulloo 1 - Turkey
Where it started.....
(Raj) Turkey was chosen to be the test case country. Samji, Saif and Raj would be the test case Ulloos. It was initially suggested that the Ulloos would take a package holiday, stay in a hotel on the south west coast and take daily trips from there to visit a few sites of interest. But Raj was thinking something rather different. He just suggested booking return flights from London to Istanbul and take it from there. He was asked "So what then? Where do we stay? Where and what would we eat? How would we travel?" The answers came from experience both from trips about Britain and......
Back in the summer of 1983 as a student Raj, together with a friend of ours, had traveled, or rather wondered free-style, about Europe for a month on an Inter-Rail ticket. There had been no day to day planning other than agreeing on a handful of countries and cities to see. Paris, Pisa, Verona, Venice, pass through what was then Yugoslavia and end up in Athens. From there to the Greek coast for a brief rest and start the round trip back to Salzburg followed by Ulm and back to Calais to get the boat back home. His friend was apprehensive and only began to relax once they had crossed over to Italy from France via Modane. They took a tent but sometimes ended up where there were no camp sites near by. So it was sleeping bags down for the night on pavements, in parks and, if they were allowed, on railway station platforms. And so after a month with all the cities and sites "done" plus a few stumblings into hitherto unheard of towns and villages it was time to board the boat back to good old Blighty. "Do we have to go back?" Raj's friend asked. "I could do this for a few more months!" Raj agreed. But their families were waiting for them as were their supervisors and doctorate projects back at the university.
So Raj never looked back and that became his preferred style of travel. If he thought the Ullos would also be concerned by his ideas then he would agree on booking the flights to Istanbul plus a single pre-booked room in a hotel. But that should be all he suggested.
The three Ulloos arrived late in the evening and stayed up until early morning, reminiscing about the "good old days", chatting and joking and doing so while a large bottle of vodka decided to empty itself... with a little help. Next day they agreed not to see Istanbul first but head off to Bursa - the first Ottoman capital. "How do we get there?" arose the question. "Well by coach and by boat!" came the reply. So off they went.... From there to Ismir and return by train and boat to Istanbul to see the grand old city.
Back in the summer of 1983 as a student Raj, together with a friend of ours, had traveled, or rather wondered free-style, about Europe for a month on an Inter-Rail ticket. There had been no day to day planning other than agreeing on a handful of countries and cities to see. Paris, Pisa, Verona, Venice, pass through what was then Yugoslavia and end up in Athens. From there to the Greek coast for a brief rest and start the round trip back to Salzburg followed by Ulm and back to Calais to get the boat back home. His friend was apprehensive and only began to relax once they had crossed over to Italy from France via Modane. They took a tent but sometimes ended up where there were no camp sites near by. So it was sleeping bags down for the night on pavements, in parks and, if they were allowed, on railway station platforms. And so after a month with all the cities and sites "done" plus a few stumblings into hitherto unheard of towns and villages it was time to board the boat back to good old Blighty. "Do we have to go back?" Raj's friend asked. "I could do this for a few more months!" Raj agreed. But their families were waiting for them as were their supervisors and doctorate projects back at the university.
So Raj never looked back and that became his preferred style of travel. If he thought the Ullos would also be concerned by his ideas then he would agree on booking the flights to Istanbul plus a single pre-booked room in a hotel. But that should be all he suggested.
The three Ulloos arrived late in the evening and stayed up until early morning, reminiscing about the "good old days", chatting and joking and doing so while a large bottle of vodka decided to empty itself... with a little help. Next day they agreed not to see Istanbul first but head off to Bursa - the first Ottoman capital. "How do we get there?" arose the question. "Well by coach and by boat!" came the reply. So off they went.... From there to Ismir and return by train and boat to Istanbul to see the grand old city.
Departure......
(Raj) Three (yet to be) Ulloos set off from Heathrow to Istanbul. Then no one knew we would, over the next few years, travel to 11 countries and three others for extended weekends.
Samji the invincible!
(Raj) At playing draughts that is. In Bursa, Samji won every game he played against Saif and me. So I tried beating him using another strategy! Good job he was partially anaesthetized with a few shots of voddies and had a cushion on his head.
Tombs of the Sultans - Bursa
Inside a tomb
(Raj) These resting places of the long gone Ottoman Sultans and their families convey a tangibly serene ambiance. Some are very ornately decorated.
One of the graves
View of the Ulu Camii
(Raj) Photo of the Ulu Camii (Great Mosque) taken from our hotel window. It is one of the earliest mosques built during the time when Bursa was the capital city of Turkey.
Inside the Camii
(Raj) The Ulu Camii is a beautiful mosque decorated with Arabic calligraphy.
Ulu Camii
Having a break
(Raj) Our bus driver allowed the passengers a short break while on the way to Izmir.
Goings-on at Sardis
(Raj) We arrived in the nearby town to the ancient site by mid morning. The main road was festooned with flags of Turkey and the images of a woman. We thought she was a film star - but see "Making friends..." below. A crowd began to gather and we, being curious, joined it. The centre of attention was a cow draped in a large flag. A mascot, we thought, until I pointed out two men wearing rubber aprons with long knives hanging by their sides. "I don't want to see this," said Samji rather alarmed! Neither did Saif nor I so we looked for the road to the site. I have no idea why we missed going to Ephesus which is also not far from Izmir.
Making friends - Sardis
(Raj) We ended our trip to the site of Sardis and were waiting to catch a bus back to Izmir. However, the gentleman sitting to the left of me (wearing the hat) was curious and invited us for coffee with his friends. They were farmers. Our friend was a lawyer living in Switzerland and was visiting his relatives in Turkey. We communicated partly in English and partly German. He told us about the events that had taken place earlier in the day when we had arrived in this small town. We told him we needed to return to Izmir and it was getting late. He told us not to worry as his friend (standing by the road in the background) would stop the bus for us and we should carry on talking for a while. Discussions on our experience of Turkey, our lives/families back in London, Turkish history & politics. Something about his friends growing grapes in the surrounding fields.
As for the current politics, our friend explains that Tansu Ciller, the then prime minister, had visited the town that afternoon and the cow was slaughtered in her honour. A "qurbani", or ritual sacrifice, he enlightens us.
As for the current politics, our friend explains that Tansu Ciller, the then prime minister, had visited the town that afternoon and the cow was slaughtered in her honour. A "qurbani", or ritual sacrifice, he enlightens us.
Fun on the ferry going to Istanbul...
(Raj) We made our way back from Izmir to Istanbul by train and then ferry from Bandirma across the inland sea of Marmara. Unlike today beer (beera) was sold on the ferry. That helped with the fun.
As we approached Istanbul at dusk
(Raj) As we approached Istanbul the sun was setting and the city, together with the mosques and their characteristic yet elegant minarets, was being lit up. It was wonderful, if not magical, to see it loom larger. We found a hotel close to Sultan Ahmet Camii and began our experience of being in a wonderful and grand historic city.
The Blue Mosque, Istanbul
Saif got to pray here while Samji and I waited to go inside.
Interior of the Blue Mosque
(Raj) The Blue Mosque was designed by the apprentices of the master Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan. It incorporates Byzantine and Ottoman styles which seem to complement each other. As beautiful and majestic the building is, Mimar Sinan wanted to perfect his skills and did so by designing his masterpiece Selimiye Mosque in the town of Edirne close to the Greek border. During my many subsequent visits to Turkey I would get an opportunity to visit this mosque. In my view, the master architect seemed to have chosen a most unlikely place to demonstrate his talents!
Hagia Sophia museum, Istanbul
(Raj) Initially constructed in Byzantine architecture to be an orthodox church (360 AD), it was converted into a mosque in 1453 following the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople. Since 1935 however it has been a museum.
Huge doors leading into the Hagia Sophia.
Interior
Interior
Interior
Once a mosque
(Raj) As well as the external minarets there are still elements of the interior that show the Hagia Sophia was a mosque. This is a picture of the ornate mehrab marking the direction of prayer.
Interior
Massive plates bearing Arabic calligraphy also decorate the interior as well as verses from the Holy Koran.
Mosaics
(Raj) Beautiful mosaics adorned the walls of the former church. In keeping with Islamic law forbidding images of living beings the mosaics were covered with plaster. However since it was turned into a museum the remaining mosaics have been uncovered.
Another of the mosaics
The Top Kapi Palace
A building next to the Top Kapi. The name literally translates as "Cannon Gate" but it is a palace from where the Ottoman Sultans ruled and lived.
Interior
(Raj) At its zenith the Ottoman Empire stretched over most of the Middle East, north Africa and south west Europe. Wealth would have flooded into the capital, and it shows but not in an audacious display. And so it is with the Top Kapi. There is a fine balance between riches and power, and restrained modesty.
Interior
Insignia of the sultans in Arabic calligraphy.
Interior
The harem (royal women's quarters)
Interior
Tiled walls
There are many ceramic tiled walls such as this one.
Weapons
(Raj) The Top Kapi is not only a preserved palace but also a museum housing artifacts of royal wealth, weaponry and articles used for domestic purposes such as a preserved kitchen.
There is a lotto see in the Top Kapi and here we have given just a glimpse of what it is like. A visitor can spend best part of a day here.
There is a lotto see in the Top Kapi and here we have given just a glimpse of what it is like. A visitor can spend best part of a day here.
Time to say farewell to Istanbul.....
(Raj) This was taken on our last morning there. We've seen a few places, mingled with the people, eaten their food, emptied the bottles of voddies, and had a great time. This success would result in our next destination - Morocco. Now with Sudesh joining us as a fourth Ulloo.
......But not before a drink
(Raj) From a very persistent sales man.