Ulloo 16 - Uzbekistan
Silk Road champion
In our travels around the world we have experienced generosity from ordinary people for which we remain eternally grateful. Helping a fellow human being in any circumstances is extremely heart-warming. In today’s business jargon you might say it is a win-win state of affairs:
Our visit to Uzbekistan was no different, as the second language of the county is Russian, hardly anyone understands English. It was more challenging to communicate with the ordinary people. Under these circumstances human ingenuity came to our rescue. Here are some examples to illustrate the kindness and generosity of Uzbek people shown to us during our short visit:
In Tashkent we went in search of the famous “Central Asian Plov Centre” restaurant where they serve plov the national dish at lunch time only. The guide book says that this place serves the “best plov in central Asia”. We went to the nearest Metro station and tried following the map in the guide book. After walking for 1 km, we approached two young men in their twenties standing at a bus stop. One of them spoke a little English, I pointed out the details of the restaurant in our guide book. Using his mobile phone he contacted the restaurant and got the exact location. It turned out that we were walking in completely the opposite direction. The other youth said that it is very near where he lives. It was about 2 km away from where we were. They decided to walk with us to the famous Plov Centre. The English speaking youth was called Ravshan and the other was called Shukur. They joined us for the Plov lunch. During this precious two hours they were with us, we got to know a great deal about each other.
- It makes you feel better about yourself knowing that you have spread a little human kindness.
- You have connected with a total stranger and learned about them and them about you.
- Your action has help the person in need and made their life a little better
- Above all, by your kind action you have made the world a better place and if that kindness and compassion is passed on by others then humanity has prevailed.
Our visit to Uzbekistan was no different, as the second language of the county is Russian, hardly anyone understands English. It was more challenging to communicate with the ordinary people. Under these circumstances human ingenuity came to our rescue. Here are some examples to illustrate the kindness and generosity of Uzbek people shown to us during our short visit:
In Tashkent we went in search of the famous “Central Asian Plov Centre” restaurant where they serve plov the national dish at lunch time only. The guide book says that this place serves the “best plov in central Asia”. We went to the nearest Metro station and tried following the map in the guide book. After walking for 1 km, we approached two young men in their twenties standing at a bus stop. One of them spoke a little English, I pointed out the details of the restaurant in our guide book. Using his mobile phone he contacted the restaurant and got the exact location. It turned out that we were walking in completely the opposite direction. The other youth said that it is very near where he lives. It was about 2 km away from where we were. They decided to walk with us to the famous Plov Centre. The English speaking youth was called Ravshan and the other was called Shukur. They joined us for the Plov lunch. During this precious two hours they were with us, we got to know a great deal about each other.
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We went to the Tashkent rail station to purchase tickets in advance for our onward travels to Samarkand and Bukhara and back to Tashkent. Just outside the station it was bustling with people. It was about seven in the evening, but quite dark where we saw very few direction signs. We followed signs for ticket office in one direction, only to discover the doors to the building was shut then. Then we saw another sign that we thought was for the ticket office again we did not have any joy. For almost half an hour we went round in circles. Then one of the locals took a pity on us and pointed us in the right direction to a huge ticket office building. Once inside we successfully managed to obtain tickets for all our rail journeys.
Our first day in Samarkand, it was late in the afternoon we were hungry so went to a small café type eatery. There was no menu in English. No staff member understood any English and we were getting no where with our attempt to order food. A customer adjacent to our table was quietly eating his lunch and noticed our predicament. He gently spoke in Uzbek language to the staff member and requested him to bring out the various dishes available including different types of salads. We successfully ordered our food by pointing to the an assortment of dishes we wanted to eat. The food was simple but delicious and we all relish it with great delight.
Our first day in Samarkand, it was late in the afternoon we were hungry so went to a small café type eatery. There was no menu in English. No staff member understood any English and we were getting no where with our attempt to order food. A customer adjacent to our table was quietly eating his lunch and noticed our predicament. He gently spoke in Uzbek language to the staff member and requested him to bring out the various dishes available including different types of salads. We successfully ordered our food by pointing to the an assortment of dishes we wanted to eat. The food was simple but delicious and we all relish it with great delight.
To make best use of our limited time in Bukhara, we decided that we will hire the service of an English speaking guide for most of the day to show us the various place of interest in the city. We went to the tourist information and culture centre located near our hotel. On reaching there we were told the office was closed. Then the souvenir shop assistant asked us about what we were looking for. When we told her that we require service of a guide on the next day, she made several phone calls and eventually managed to contact the guide and we spoke with our guide in English and arranged our plans for the next day.Mr Fakhriddin our guide in Bukhra was very humble and knowledgeable man in his early thirties. Normally his walking tours lasts between 5 to 6 hours for which we agreed his fees. At the outset we had compiled a list of places we were keen to see. He went through our list and agreed to include all the places in our list and added few other places along the way. Our walking tour was most informative and enjoyable. It lasted significantly longer than normal as we took every opportunity to ask several questions. What made it special for me were the numerous special personal touches he included; For example at one point we went past an eating place where some dishes are cooked in an outdoor clay tandoor. It was early evening; he approached the proprietor and asked whether we can have a taste of the freshly cooked samosas.
On the train back from Bukhara to Tashkent, my seat and an adjacent seat were “commandeered” by two men in military outfit. Although I had my ticket showing the seat number assigned to me, I was very uneasy about what I should do ask for my seat. For a short period of time I stood near my seat. One Russian middle age lady saw my predicaments and spoke to me in broken English. She asked me about where we were from, where we had been in her country and what we thought of the country. After a short while she took pity on me and offered me her seat which was located near our group. She herself moved to an empty seat located further along the carriage.
To the people of Uzbekistan, we salute you for your hospitality and kind generosity shown to us during our short visit.
To the people of Uzbekistan, we salute you for your hospitality and kind generosity shown to us during our short visit.
But we are jumping ahead .... this Is where It starts
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All ulloos at Heathrow airport Friday 21st October 2016
The start of a tremendous ulloo trip and some firsts - our first selfie
If you don't have much time this is A summary of ulloo 16
This is the image that the armies of the great Amir Temur saw on their adventures over many lands
And this is the image Ulloos saw on their adventure in Uzbekistan
It's the great Raj also known as ulu ulloo
'come on you ulloos, keep up and stop slithering - there is a lot to see!'
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THE PROTAGONISTS
From left to right:
Saif (aka Ghanawalla).
So laid back he's horizontal but with a sense of humour that can set the house on fire.
Raj (aka Daroowalla, Photowalla)
Actioned with sourcing the voddies for ulloo trips. Incredible depth of knowledge. If he doesn't know it, its not worth knowing.
Ashok (aka Good Cop)
Master debater and intensely deep thinker. Ponders the great moral and philosophical questions of our time. Great powers of persuasion. Able to make the most absurd argument sound plausible.
Samji (aka Phantom Scribbler, Banker)
Meticulous attention to detail and record keeping. Well, what do you expect from a qualified accountant?! Responsible for organising most ulloo trips and carrying out the financial transactions. Likes nothing better than to be leading from the front. When he's got a target in mind nothing is going to stand in his way. He'll get there in the end but not necessarily in the most direct route!
Sudesh (aka Fat Mexican, Bad Cop, Assistant Banker)
A gruff Yorkshireman who lacks the social niceties of the other ulloos. When voddie fuelled debates get too high brow he will bring them back down to earth with a bang.
VODDIES: THE ESSENTIAL INGREDIENT OF ULLOO TRIPS
As soon as we arrive at our hotel it is Daroowalla's responsibility first and foremost to go on a scouting mission to collect our supplies of drinks for the evening. He has honed this skill to a fine art.
The ulloo's drink of choice is Vodka. After a hard days sightseeing we will finish off the evenings in our hotel room knocking back the Voddies putting the world to right and reminiscing over previous ulloo trips. How cool I hear you say (not)! Well some of us are already granddads!
In Uzbekistan the local drinks were very reasonably priced with a good quality 1L bottle of vodka costing about 3usd and 1.5L bottle of beer for 1usd
The ulloo's drink of choice is Vodka. After a hard days sightseeing we will finish off the evenings in our hotel room knocking back the Voddies putting the world to right and reminiscing over previous ulloo trips. How cool I hear you say (not)! Well some of us are already granddads!
In Uzbekistan the local drinks were very reasonably priced with a good quality 1L bottle of vodka costing about 3usd and 1.5L bottle of beer for 1usd
STAGE 1: tASHKENT
Chorsu market: The best place to change currency
You won't have any problems in changing money here. Remember to have crisp clean dollars.....
You won't have any problems in changing money here. Remember to have crisp clean dollars.....
....and a rucksack for carrying the wads of uzbek soums
The bankers displaying their soums back at the hotel.....Millionaires at last!
Now you know why no-one uses wallets in Uzbekistan!
Now you know why no-one uses wallets in Uzbekistan!
The old quarter:
No ulloo trip is complete without visiting the old quarter. Raj was particularly excited as we strolled around here. In the distance can be seen a minaret in the old complex housing one of the earliest copies of the Koran, which was our next destination. But after several hours walking around in circles and enlisting the help of the locals we gave up and came back the next day.
No ulloo trip is complete without visiting the old quarter. Raj was particularly excited as we strolled around here. In the distance can be seen a minaret in the old complex housing one of the earliest copies of the Koran, which was our next destination. But after several hours walking around in circles and enlisting the help of the locals we gave up and came back the next day.
Destination: Indian quarter
Samji is determined to find the indian quarter while the other ulloos think "deja vu" as we continue to go round in circles. But enough is enough when after being "nearly there" samji suggests we catch a taxi!
Samji is determined to find the indian quarter while the other ulloos think "deja vu" as we continue to go round in circles. But enough is enough when after being "nearly there" samji suggests we catch a taxi!
Sudesh: "We must have been 'that' close to the indian quarter".
Luckily we spotted a Russian bar and gave up our hunt for the indian quarter which nobody seemed to have heard of!
Luckily we spotted a Russian bar and gave up our hunt for the indian quarter which nobody seemed to have heard of!
Raj: "I could throttle that Samji. My feet are killing me and I was that close to going back to the hotel"
Raj still recovering from the search for the indian quarter.
Raj still recovering from the search for the indian quarter.
The best plov in Central Asia
The national dish of Uzbekistan is 'plov' which is essentially a high fat content meat stew served on a bed of rice.... ideal for warming you up in the cold Uzbek winters. According to our Brandt guidebook the best plov in central asia is served in a restaurant located in Tashkent. So on our 3rd day Samji made it our mission that we would go in search for this restaurant. Ironically, Samji is a strict vegetarian so he himself would be unable to enjoy this local delicacy. As the ulloos had not yet mastered the art of hailing two taxis in Uzbekistan at once and rendezvousing at the same destination we decided to walk. Surprise, surprise we would end up walking in totally the wrong direction and going round in circles.
The national dish of Uzbekistan is 'plov' which is essentially a high fat content meat stew served on a bed of rice.... ideal for warming you up in the cold Uzbek winters. According to our Brandt guidebook the best plov in central asia is served in a restaurant located in Tashkent. So on our 3rd day Samji made it our mission that we would go in search for this restaurant. Ironically, Samji is a strict vegetarian so he himself would be unable to enjoy this local delicacy. As the ulloos had not yet mastered the art of hailing two taxis in Uzbekistan at once and rendezvousing at the same destination we decided to walk. Surprise, surprise we would end up walking in totally the wrong direction and going round in circles.
Enter the Good Samaritans
.Lke the "Parable of The Good Samaritan" from the bible two strangers came to our rescue.
Samji: "I'm an expert map reader and I've got a sense of direction that is only matched by salmon, homing pigeons and canadian geese. But today I haven't had my breakfast and I'm a feeling a bit light headed and dis-orientated. Would you be able to tell me how to get to the greatest plov restaurant in central asia before I get lynched by my friends?"
Good Samaritan: "No problem, I'll phone the restaurant number in your guide"...Pause..."I'm sorry Mr. Homing Pigeon. It appears you're walking in the wrong direction. But the restaurant is near where my friend lives and we'll walk you there"
Samji: "I'm an expert map reader and I've got a sense of direction that is only matched by salmon, homing pigeons and canadian geese. But today I haven't had my breakfast and I'm a feeling a bit light headed and dis-orientated. Would you be able to tell me how to get to the greatest plov restaurant in central asia before I get lynched by my friends?"
Good Samaritan: "No problem, I'll phone the restaurant number in your guide"...Pause..."I'm sorry Mr. Homing Pigeon. It appears you're walking in the wrong direction. But the restaurant is near where my friend lives and we'll walk you there"
The good samaritans kindly walked us to the restaurant and bid farewell on the other side of the road next to a zebra crossing.
In the uk pedestrians have prority over motorists at a zebra crossing. This is not the case in Uzbekistan. After several minutes waiting for the traffic to stop, the good samaritans realised we had failed to negotiate the traffic, much to their amusement. So they returned and helped us across the road and again bid us farewell.
We pondered our deflated egos at not being able to cross the road ourselves as we walked into the restaurant.
In the uk pedestrians have prority over motorists at a zebra crossing. This is not the case in Uzbekistan. After several minutes waiting for the traffic to stop, the good samaritans realised we had failed to negotiate the traffic, much to their amusement. So they returned and helped us across the road and again bid us farewell.
We pondered our deflated egos at not being able to cross the road ourselves as we walked into the restaurant.
